- Pinning A Cracked Rifle Stockton
- Fixing A Cracked Rifle Stock
- Pinning A Cracked Rifle Stock Symbol
- Pinning A Cracked Rifle Stock
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- Diamond
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How can I repair a cracked stock?
I have a Winchester Model 62, It is a slide action .22 cal rifle. The receiver has 2 tangs extending back about 4' into the stock flush with the wood, top and bottom. The stock is held on by a single screw from the top, thru the stock, and threads into the lower tang. The stock is cracked through vertically in the area between the tangs. this allows the stock to pivot side to side on the screw. the stock is spread a bit at the receiver. I sure don't want to add a bolt or screw through the stock side to side....What is the best way to repair this?
- Aluminum
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You could drill the crack and inject with epoxy ,sand and refinish or get with ..the guy that has the stock duplicater here and get a new one made. Dave
- Diamond
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The crack does not get to the surface anywhere, It is straight down the center and then going to one side by the screw hole. I'd like to keep it original if possible, other than the stock issue it is in as new condition.
- Stainless
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Am I to understand that this crack is in the wood of the stock and is with the grain ?
Brian - Diamond
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Yes. Its about 3' long. the wood is only about 3/8 thick on each side of the metal. that area of the stock is sort of oval shaped, about 1 1/4' thick and 1 1/2' tall.Originally Posted by SachmanramAm I to understand that this crack is in the wood of the stock and is with the grain ?
Brian - Stainless
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A photo of the crack would be helpful if possible, but if this is what I imagine it is, you should be able to inject regular yellow carpenter's glue into the crack and clamp it tightly overnight using a soft cloth on the stock along with pine (or similar softwood) clamping blocks under the clamps to prevent damage to the stock. Depending on the shape of the stock, it may be necessary to shape the 'pine' blocks to fit the stock to aid in proper clamping pressure. If you place the tip of the glue bottle firmly at 90 degrees to the surface, you will find that you can force the glue fairly deeply into the crack. If the crack is very fine or deep, you may have to either 'gently' pry the crack open further or drill some small holes in the crack (assuming that the crack is on the hidden side) to aid in getting the glue deep into the crack. Epoxy glue will withstand the weather better than regular carpenter's glue but will require a longer clamp time. If you are mostly a fairweather hunter, the yellow glue will be fine.
I hope this has been a help to you.
Regards.. Brian - Cast Iron
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Use epoxy for the repair as it is 100% solids and will not shrink. I would get some bedding compound like Brownells Acraglas and use it to fix the crack as well as glass bed the receiver tangs to the wood. The wood to metal contact areas will end up epoxy coated and will be oil and waterproof. Done correctly, the repair will invisible and the stock will be stronger than it was originally.
RWO - Hot Rolled
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Tiebold 2 Is great or the one for Dark woods. Try to hold open the crack. Take your air compressor and blow some glue into the crack. you might open and close it to work the glue into the crack. Wipe off the extra with a damp towel. Then wrap it with some surgical tubing to clamp it re clean glue and a way you go. Tiebond will tare wood before it lets go.
David - Diamond
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David/toledo, where do I get this glue? What is the correct spelling?
- Aluminum
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Ill second what RWO said. I have used Acraglas to fix a number of broken stocks and it has always worked well. It comes with dye so you can dye it to match the color of your stock, and it is very strong, you will break the wood before you break the epoxy bond.
- Titanium
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I don't like to knock Brownells because without them my life would be hell. But there are some products out there that are so much cheaper that you sort of have to sit back and scratch your head and they work as good or much better than the Brownells version. I have used this stuff for some time as a replacement for the runny accra-glass. It works equally as well, hardens the same, looks the same, smells the same and I'm not going to say that Brownells is repackaging it and selling it. But if it walks like a duck! This stuff is meant for synthetics but I use it mainly for wood stock repairs, some bedding applications and it works GREAT. It does NOT work well when mixed with micro balloons as the epoxy seams to be to thin and settles out and leaves you with a brittle foam like material. I only buy it by the half gallon (liter in Canada) now as it seams to have only a 2 year shelf life. If it gets to old hardening gets erratic so buy what you expect to use in a year. Epoxy : Epoxy Resins and Hardeners
- Titanium
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- Cast Iron
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Does the stock close up tight with hand pressure? If it does not you have to separate the pieces and clean out any splinters. When you get to the point where the stock closes with hand pressure ,you are ready to glue. Probably the easiest way is with hot hide glue.
I realize most people do not have it. Some woodworkers, furniture makers etc still use hot hide glue.The advantages are that you do not need to clamp. After applying glue ,pull pieces together and hold until the glue cools ,about 3 or 4 minutes. The glue is reversible with a heat gun if needed.It takes a stain or other finish without blotching.
See if their is someone in your area that uses it, they can drip a bit into the crack or completely glue the joint if you had to separate the two pieces.
Jello, natural without coloring is a weaker form of hide glue. You could try it on scrap wood.Mix the jello in water til it is a bit thinner than paste. Let it stand overnight in a jar.
Heat the jar of jello in a pot of water until it reaches 140°. Stir it up , it should slowly drip off a brush.Heat longer or add water to the right consistancy, then apply.Hold the pieces together until the glue cools to the touch.
Let it sit for a day.Then put the scrap in a vice,leave the joint above the jaws and whack it with a hammer. If the scrap breaks on the glueline, do not use it. If it breaks above the glue line the mix is good for the stock.
Other glues that were mentioned will work too.I prefer the hot hide glue because the stock is difficult clamp tight , and the other glues may show a glue line.The hide glue line looks more like a grain line,and can be stained or toned to the original color.
You can buy this glue online but unless you think you will use it for other stuff it would lay around for years.
I looked in the shop for some I thought I had left, couldn't find any. I would have mailed you a couple of ounces if I found it.
If you you go the TiteBond route,then make sure you get the TiteBond Molding glue. This is extra tacky and sets quicker. Mask off everything but the glue line as this glue is a bear to clean up.Be advised that you will see the glueline if the joint is not absolutely perfect.
mike - LFEngineeringCast Iron
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If your interested in a replacement I can make a copy of it given the original as a template.
- Titanium
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Brownells has had Acraglas Gel for years.
Not runny.
I have fixed several ratty stocks with it. - Stainless
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One issue with older stocks, especialy around an action is that oil can work into the crack an prevent glue from bonding. Personaly, I have had little luck with yellow glues on old gun stocks. Having said that, the stock was a badly dammaged SXS shotgun, broken in the lock area. No amount of cleaning would get the glue to hold. Fortunately it was just a harware store special and all I wanted was a model to referance when I carved a new stock for the experiance.
Hide glue is the most forgiving and easies to rework if you make a mistake. It also does not tent to bloch if you put a finish over it. Thats why its prefered for inlay work on fine furnature.
Yellow glues and Tightbond II are in the same basic family of glues as hide glues (protene based) but highly modified to stay liquid. They are available at most home centers and work well, but tend to bloch when a finished is applied to areas they have touched. They do not bond well to oily surfaces, so if the crack is old and oil has wept into in for years they will not be a good choice.
Cyanoacitate (super glue) is very thin and could be injected in to a crack with something like an insulin needle, but glues in this family are sensitive to shock loading and not well suited for gun work.
Epoxy resins come in a variety of flavors. The ones recomended are well proven choices.
With all glues, cleanlyness is next to goddleynes.
Surface area in contact is what gives you strength. A few small dots here and there wont cut it. You have to get the crack open and get your favorite goop down in it, and then clamp it shut so that the glue line is thin. Dont worry about starving a glue joint by applying excess pressure. You will crush the stock first.
Drilling a few holes under the tang and cross pinning the crack with some diagonal wires bedded in epoxy is one way to reinforce the joint.
Drilling a small hole the size of a syringe tip about half way down the crack and injecting glue at the center is another way to fully fill the crack. It forces the crack open and the clamping force pushes excess glue to other unfilled parts of the crack on the way to the surface.
Your description indicates that the stock is now loose and moves side to side, most likely opening the crack. Unless the failure was recent, the crack may be too dirty and oily to take any glue. If this proves to be the case, consider drilling a 1/2' horizontal hole between the tangs and epoxying a walnut dowel into the hole This will give you fresh surfaces to bond to and a lot of surface area for the glue. The end grain of the dowel should match the end grain of the stock and be be hidden by the reciever.
Drilling of holes and pinning is usualy reserved for full on breaks and great effort is taken to keep the pin holes out of surfaces that are exposed when the gun is reassembled. These techniques are generaly tried after less agressive techniques fail. - Plastic
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ahall,
You mentioned 'shock loading' in reference to Cyanoacitate (super glue). I'm not familiar with the term. Can you explain further? Thanks.
Wayne - Stainless
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Shock loading refers to impact type loadings, recoil, rocks falling in to dump truck beds, armidillos bouncing off your bumper, etc. As an engineer we dont realy like this stuff because the math gets a little more complicated. Instead of doing a simple force balance to determine the load, we have to get into a bunch of energy absorbtion calculations, and then back calculate the forces from the deflections.
The ability of some materials to deflect can be dependent on how fast they are loaded.
When I was a kid you could get those candy bar size strips of taffy. If you pulled them slowly, they would streach several feet, but you could also jerk them quickly and snap off half for your buddy. Dont ask me to explain why.
For some reason super glues are a bit brittle when loaded quickly and dont absorbe energy well. The tend to crack. This family of glues also has low peal strength.
Next time you glue your fingers together smack them on the table a dozen times and then work the joint back and forth. No need for razor blades or nail pollish remover to get the fingers unstuck. - Aluminum
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This topic of discussion sounds like it could take place at Dentistry school. I like the idea of pins and epoxy myself as it has worked for me on many different repair problems. I haven't tried it on teeth yet but my understanding is that the technique is the same.
- Hot Rolled
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for the best instructions on fixing gun stocks go to surplusrifleforum and look in the stock care forum. The moderator candyman has put up a number of tutorials on fixing various cracks in odd shaped parts, most of the time the crack cant be seen. I dont think candyman is taking in any more work, but member gunfreak is if you dont want to do the work yourself.
Drill bit, drill a hole into or through the stock, which ever is required for the particular crack, apply epoxy to the pin and drive it in with a hammer. Be sure not to hit the stock with the hammer. Once the epoxy has set, cover it and the surrounding stock with masking tape and allow the brass only to poke a hole through the tape. Dealing with a cracked stock. Discussion in 'Double Rifles' started by matt85, Jul 15, 2014. Matt85 AH ENABLER AH Legend. Joined: Jan 7, 2014 Messages. Like Parsons said it is usually from recoil and having the head of the stock not perfectly bedded. A good rifle or shotgun gunsmith or even a good cabinet maker that understand's firearms. Northwest Firearms Forums > Firearm Specific Sections > Rifle Discussion. Cracked stock! We had an old Husqvarna that needed pinning cause of some stock.
Easy driver pack full crack. How to Fit a Gunstock Fitting the Forearm How to fit a buttplate Ebony Tip Material. Or even 98% inlet stock is a miracle shortcut to that custom rifle, all you need is a screwdriver and a can of OL Blighty Safari Finish. OK, you received the stock and the rifle is stripped down. First let’s check to see what needs to be done.
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